search
search
add New trip
Reims

Reims

Population: 182.000 Since: Roman era, as Durocortorum Price: Mid-range

Introduction

Reims is the working city at the center of Champagne country, an hour from Paris by fast train. The cathedral is the obvious draw, but most of what you came for happens underground, in the chalk cellars where the wine ages.

Much of the old town was flattened in World War I and rebuilt in the 1920s, so you get Art Deco facades next to Gothic stone. Place Drouet d'Erlon is the main pedestrian strip for eating and drinking. It is calmer than Paris, and locals treat that as a feature.

Sightseeing

Notre-Dame Cathedral: Coronation church of French kings, with stained glass by Chagall.
Palais du Tau: The former archbishops' palace beside the cathedral, holding coronation treasures.
Basilique Saint-Remi: Older, quieter Romanesque church with a UNESCO listing.
Porte de Mars: A Roman triumphal arch from the 3rd century.
Musee des Beaux-Arts: City art collection, worth an hour if the weather turns.
Place Drouet d'Erlon: The long pedestrian square lined with cafes and the golden fountain.

"Coronation cathedral, chalk cellars, good champagne"Reims

Things to do

Champagne house tour: Book ahead at Taittinger, Pommery or Ruinart to walk the chalk caves.
Veuve Clicquot and Piper-Heidsieck: Two more big names offering cellar visits with a tasting.
Cathedral climb: Seasonal tower tours for a roof-level view over the city.
Epernay day trip: The Avenue de Champagne with more houses sits 25 minutes south by train.
Cellar tasting: Most tours end with a glass; pay a little more for a proper flight.
Fountain picnic: Grab a baguette and sit near Place d'Erlon.
Local food and drinks - Reims

Local food and drinks

Champagne: The whole reason to come; buy it at Monoprix to avoid tourist markups.
Biscuit rose de Reims: Pink almond biscuit meant for dipping in champagne.
Jambon de Reims: Local parsleyed ham terrine.
Petit Four patisserie: Grab a fresh baguette or pastry to eat by a fountain.
Place Stalingrad pizzerias: Cheaper meals away from the central square.
Local traditions - Reims

Local traditions

Coronation heritage: The city leans on its royal crowning history in tours and events.
Les Sacres du Folklore: Summer festival of music and street performance.
Fetes Johanniques: June weekend marking Joan of Arc, with a costumed parade.
Champagne harvest: September brings the vendange and a busy, festive mood in nearby villages.

History

Reims began as Durocortorum, a major Roman town, and the Porte de Mars still stands from that era. In 496 Clovis, king of the Franks, was baptized here, which set the pattern: for roughly a thousand years French kings came to Reims to be crowned in the cathedral.

The First World War hit hard. German shelling burned much of the cathedral and wrecked the old houses, so the 1920s rebuild gave the city its Art Deco look. In May 1945 the German surrender was signed in a schoolroom here, now a small museum.

Things to know

Museums add up: Nearly every one charges, so budget or pick one.
Call cellars ahead: Tour times and languages vary; some sell out.
Sunday is quiet: Many shops shut, though cathedral and cafes stay open.
TGV vs TER: The fast TGV station is out at Champagne-Ardenne, a tram ride from the center.

Do's and don'ts

Book champagne tours a day or two in advance.
Buy your bottle at Monoprix or Espace d'Erlon.
Walk the Art Deco streets, not just the cathedral.
Try the pink biscuit dipped in champagne, as locals do.
Don't expect Paris-level nightlife; it winds down early.
Don't buy champagne in tourist shops near the cathedral.
Don't skip Saint-Remi just because it is a walk out.
Don't assume the TGV station is central.

Good to know

Accessibility: Central squares and the cathedral floor are largely flat and workable, though cellar tours involve stairs.
Price level: mid-range

Photo: Wikipedia / Wikimedia Commons