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Faro
Destinations › Europe › Portugal › Algarve

Faro

Population: about 60,000 Since: Roman origins, walled under Moorish rule Price: Mid-range Capital city

Introduction

Faro is the southern end of mainland Portugal, and for many visitors it is just the airport before the beach resorts. Give it a night or two and it earns more than that. The old town inside the walls is quiet, cobbled and easy to walk, and the Ria Formosa lagoon sits right at the edge of the city.

In July and August it fills with sun-seekers from the UK and northern Europe. Off season it empties out and turns calm, a small city where you can eat well and hear yourself think. It also works as a stop between Lisbon and Seville.

In pictures

Faro
Faro
Faro
Faro
Ria Formosa view from Faro
Ria Formosa view from Faro
The Manuel Bívar park, the main square and historic centre of Faro
The Manuel Bívar park, the main square and historic centre of Faro

Sightseeing

Old Town (Centro Historico): Walled quarter of cobbled lanes and 18th century facades, quiet even in summer.
Cathedral (Se): Climb the tower for views over the rooftops and the lagoon, entry around 5 euros.
Bone Chapel (Capela dos Ossos): Small chapel lined with monks' bones, inside Igreja do Carmo, 2 euros.
Roman Ruins of Milreu: Villa and temple remains at Estoi, a short trip out of the city.
Ria Formosa lagoon: Tidal wetlands and channels reaching the city edge, home to birds and boat piers.

"The calm gateway to the Algarve"Faro

Things to do

Ria Formosa boat trips: Kayak, birdwatch or take an eco tour into the lagoon from the harbour.
Praia de Faro: Long sandy beach past the airport, reached by the airport bus, no showers on site.
Walk the old town: Best done slowly in the early evening when the light softens.
Day trip to Estoi: Combine the Roman ruins with the pink Estoi Palace.
Mercado Municipal: Browse the covered market for local produce and a cheap coffee.

Top attractions

Local food and drinks - Faro

Local food and drinks

Cataplana: Algarve seafood stew cooked in a copper clam-shaped pot, made for sharing.
Restaurante Travessa: R. de Santo Antonio 58, generous plates and an 11 euro menu of the day.
Restaurante Sal e Pimenta: R. do Montepio 9a, homemade portions with a family feel, 5 to 10 euros.
Bar CheSsenta: Rua do Prior, the main bar street, cheap drinks and occasional karaoke.
Pingo Doce at Tridente: Supermarket restaurant with very low lunch and dinner prices.
Local traditions - Faro

Local traditions

Summer season: The city shifts to beach and nightlife rhythm from June to August.
Feira de Santa Iria: October fair with rides, stalls and food on the outskirts.
Sardine grilling: Charcoal sardines appear at summer festivals across the Algarve.
Sunday market days: The municipal market runs Monday to Saturday mornings, closed Sundays.

History

Faro grew from a Roman settlement, and the nearby villa at Milreu shows how the area was farmed and lived in centuries ago. Under Moorish rule it became a walled port town, and the layout of the old quarter still follows those lines. It was one of the last Algarve towns taken by the Portuguese crown in 1249.

The 1755 Lisbon earthquake and earlier raids damaged much of the city, which is why a lot of what stands today is 18th century rebuilding. Faro became the regional capital and, with the airport opening in 1965, the main gateway to the Algarve for foreign visitors.

Things to know

The airport is close and cheap flights mean summer crowds, so book beds early for July and August.
Praia de Faro has no showers and gets busy with cars near the airport road.
Off season many restaurants and bars keep short or irregular hours.
Buses to nearby towns exist but run less often on weekends, check times ahead.

Do's and don'ts

Walk the old town in the evening when it cools and quietens.
Take at least one boat trip into the Ria Formosa.
Try the local seafood rather than the tourist menus near the marina.
Use the train for day trips along the Algarve coast.
Don't judge the city by the airport strip, the old town is far nicer.
Don't expect nightlife outside the summer months.
Don't drive to Praia de Faro at peak times, parking is tight.
Don't skip the cathedral tower for the sake of the 5 euro entry.

Good to know

Accessibility: Flat harbour and market areas are workable, but old town cobbles and the cathedral tower are hard for wheelchairs.
Price level: mid-range

Photo: Wikipedia / Wikimedia Commons